Cabeza, duck skin, lamb barbacoa, and other carefully crafted cuts of meat rotate in and out as weekly specials.

Are Grand Central commuters ready for cow’s head? “You’d be surprised,” Geragos says. The cabeza has been a hit. Suadero, a pale muscle meat that’s the star at Taqueria Ramirez in Greenpoint, has found fans with local workers as well. Tacos heaped with crispy pork belly were last week’s special —then replaced by lengua, the Spanish word for tongue. This never-ending wheel of taco magic is sure to sweep you off your fee.

Taco meats not considered, the taqueria has the look and feel of a restaurant that could go on to become a restaurant chain. Orders are punched into a kiosk, and a few minutes later, out come cafeteria trays and takeout containers lined with some of the best tacos you’ll ever try. According to Geragos and Lee, who also run Prova Pizzabar next door, the plan is to start with Grand Central, then emerge from the underground concourse and open a handful of locations across the city.